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Plague Doctor Mask Crochet Pattern

Looking for a crochet project that is a little unusual, a little creepy, and guaranteed to get people talking? Meet the Plague Doctor Mask Crochet Pattern!

With its distinctive long beak and mysterious appearance, the plague doctor mask is instantly recognizable. This crochet version puts a fun, handmade twist on one of the most iconic images associated with medieval European history.

A Little History Behind the Look

The familiar plague doctor costume—with its long beaked mask, dark clothing, gloves, and hat—is strongly associated with the physicians who treated plague victims.

Interestingly, the famous beaked mask wasn’t actually documented until later than the major 14th-century Black Death. The design is particularly associated with 17th-century plague doctors, and the idea that the beak was stuffed with fragrant herbs to protect the wearer is part of the history and folklore surrounding the costume.

Today, that distinctive silhouette has become a popular symbol of spooky season, historical costumes, Halloween decorations, and gothic-inspired designs.

Turn History Into Crochet

I love taking something unexpected and turning it into crochet, and this project definitely falls into that category!

The Plague Doctor Mask Crochet Pattern is a fun project for crocheters who enjoy unusual designs and want to make something a little different from the typical Halloween projects.

The long beak gives it that unmistakable plague doctor look, while the handmade crochet construction adds a playful twist.

Perfect for Halloween

Looking for something unique for your Halloween costume?

A crochet plague doctor mask can make a memorable addition to a spooky or historical-inspired costume. Pair it with dark clothing, a long coat, a hat, or other costume pieces to create your own mysterious plague doctor look.

It’s also a fun project for anyone who loves gothic, medieval, steampunk, or historical-inspired crafts.

A Conversation Starter for Crocheters

One of my favorite things about crochet is that you don’t always have to make the expected.

Sometimes it’s fun to look at something unusual and think:

“I wonder if I could crochet that?”

That’s exactly the kind of creativity that makes designing so much fun. 🧶

If you’re looking for a crochet project that’s creepy, quirky, and definitely not ordinary, the Plague Doctor Mask Crochet Pattern might be just the project for you.

Grab your hook, choose your yarn, and get ready to create something that looks like it stepped right out of a spooky history book!

 

Materials:

I Love This Cotton yarn:

1 oz. white

1 oz. black

1.5 oz. solid (MC)

Size G (4.0 mm) crochet hook for small, size H (5.0 mm) for medium mask

Yarn needle

Stitch markers

3 buttons 3/4+” to 7/8”

Sizing Info:

Small – From right strap to left across eyes is 8.25″. Top center to bottom is 8″. Distance between eye sockets 2.25″. Eye hole is 1″ across.

Medium – Across eyes is 8.5″. Top center to bottom is 9″. Distance between eye sockets 2.33″.

Gauge:

G hook – 5 sts = 1”, 6 rows = 1”

H hook – 5 sts = 1”, 5 rows = 1”

Directions:

For Rnds 1-31, alternate 1 sc white, 1 sc black.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (or magic circle), 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join. Work in continuous rnds throughout unless otherwise specified.

Rnd 2: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st twice (6 sc).

Rnd 3: Sc in each st.

Rnd 4: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st,* repeat twice (9 sc).

Rnd 5: Sc in each st.

Rnd 6: *Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat twice (12 sc).

Rnds 7-8: Sc in each st.

Rnd 9: *Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat twice (15 sc).

Rnds 10-11: Sc in each st.

Rnd 12: *Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat twice (18 sc).

Rnds 13-14: Sc in each st.

Rnd 15: *Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat twice (21 sc).

Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st.

Rnd 18: *Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat twice (24 sc).

Rnds 19-20: Sc in each st.

Rnd 21: *Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat twice (27 sc).

Rnds 22-23: Sc in each st.

Rnd 24: *Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat twice (30 sc).

Rnds 25-26: Sc in each st.

Rnd 27: *Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat around (36 sc).

Rnd 28: *Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat around (42 sc).

Rnd 29: *Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat around (48 sc).

Rnd 30: *Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat around (54 sc).

Rnd 31: *Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat around (60 sc). Join with sl st. Mark last st of Rnd 31. Fasten off black and white yarn. Count back 30 sts from marked st and mark 30th st.

Row 32: With right side facing, attach MC (solid) yarn at first marker, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st,* 5 times, sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st of Rnd 31 (38 sc).

Row 33: Ch 1, turn, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat across, sc in remaining sts (45 sc).

Row 34: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st.

The next 9 rows will be worked in 3 sections.

RIGHT CHEEK:

Row 35: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 9 sts (10 sc).

Row 36: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 sc, dec (9 sc).

Row 37: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 6 sts, inc (9 sc).

Row 38: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc in next 6 sc, dec (9 sc).

Row 39: Repeat Row 37.

Row 40: Repeat Row 38.

Row 41: Repeat Row 37.

Row 42: Repeat Row 38.

Row 43: Repeat Row 37. Fasten off.

NOSE BRIDGE:

Row 35: Return to Row 34, sk 8 sts, attach MC yarn in 9th st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts (7 sc).

Rows 36-39: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st.

Rows 40-41: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc across to last st, inc last st (11 sc at end of Row 41). Fasten off at end of Row 41.

NOTE: Nose bridge is 2 rows shorter than cheek sections. Don’t worry, it will even out at Rnd 44.

LEFT CHEEK:

Row 35: Return to Row 34, sk 8 sts, attach MC yarn in 9th st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 8 sts, dec (10 sc).

Row 36: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 8 sts (9 sc).

Row 37: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc in 6 sts, dec (9 sc).

Row 38: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in 6 sts, inc (9 sc).

Row 39: Repeat Row 37.

Row 40: Repeat Row 38.

Row 41: Repeat Row 37.

Row 42: Repeat Row 38.

Row 43: Repeat Row 37.

Rnd 44: Now you’ll connect the 3 sections and beginning working in rnds again, making a border around the entire mask. Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st of this section, ch 4, 2 sc in 1st st of nose bridge, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in last st of nose bridge, ch 4, 2 sc in 1st st of cheek section, sc in next 6 sts, dec. Turn to work down cheek, 10 sc evenly spaced across 11 row ends. This leaves 1 row, work dec between this sp and next sc on Rnd 31. Sc in each remaining st of Rnd 31 except last st before cheek. Dec over last st of Rnd 31 and first st of cheek, work 10 sc evenly spaced along remaining row ends. Join with sl st in first st of Rnd 44.

Rnd 45: Ch 1, sc in each sc and ch. Join with sl st. Fasten off MC.

Rnds 46-47: Join black yarn, ch 1, sc in each st. Join with sl st. Do not fasten off.

STRAP:

Ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sts.

Next Row: ch 1, turn, sc in each st. Repeat this row until strap measures 9”.

Next Row: Dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec (4 sc). Fasten off.

Fold mask in half and mark 6 sts on opposite side corresponding to strap.

Row 1: Attach black yarn in first marked st, ch 1, sc in next 6 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. Repeat this row until strap measures 6”.

Next Row (buttonhole row): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.

Repeat Row 2 five times.

Repeat last 6 rows once.

Repeat buttonhole row.

Repeat Row 2 twice.

Last row: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec (4 sc). Fasten off.

EYE HOLES: (Right eye)

Rnd 1: The bottom of eye opening has 8 sts. With right side facing, attach accent color in 2nd st, ch 1, sc in this st, sc in next 5 sts, dec between last st on bottom and 1st row edge on side, work 7 sc evenly spaced along side, dec next corner, sc next 2 loops, dec next corner, work 6 sc evenly spaced along inner side, dec last corner (25 sc). Join with sl st. If larger eye holes are desired, fasten off after Rnd 1.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sts, dec,* repeat around (20 sc). Join with sl st. Fasten off.

(Left eye)

Rnd 1: With right side facing, attach accent color in 2nd st, ch 1, sc in this st, sc in next 5 sts, dec between last st on bottom and 1st row edge on side, work 6 sc evenly spaced along side, dec next corner, sc next 2 loops, dec next corner, work 7 sc evenly spaced along inner side, dec last corner (25 sc). Join with sl st. If larger eye holes are desired, fasten off after Rnd 1.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sts, dec,* repeat around (20 sc). Join with sl st. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

If desired, glue wire to inside of nose bridge below eyes. For best fit, try on mask and mark position for buttons, then sew on.

Roll a coffee filter or paper towel into a cone and insert into nose.

 

PDF download includes both versions

Plague Mask Crochet Pattern

 

 

 

 

halloween patterns

 

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Miles the Jazzy Elephant blanket pattern
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Miles the Jazzy Elephant Toddler Blanket C2C Crochet Pattern

Miles the Jazzy Elephant blanket pattern

In the heart of a bustling city, where the streets hummed with the rhythm of life, there lived an elephant named Miles. But Miles wasn’t your ordinary elephant; he was a jazzy elephant. With his sleek, silver trumpet in his trunk and a smooth fedora perched on his head, he was the coolest cat — or, rather, the coolest elephant — in town.

Every evening, as the sun dipped below the skyline, Miles would wander down to the local jazz club, The Trumpeting Tusk, where musicians from all over gathered to play. The air was thick with melodies, harmonies, and the gentle sway of jazz, but whenever Miles showed up, the music took on a whole new vibe.

Miles had an ear for the blues, the swing, and everything in between. His trunk moved effortlessly over his trumpet’s keys, sending out notes that made people feel things they couldn’t quite describe. His music wasn’t just sound; it was emotion. With each note, he told stories of joy, heartbreak, adventure, and mystery. The crowd would lean in closer, mesmerized by the soul Miles poured into every performance.

But Miles had a secret. Despite his outward charm and rhythm, he wasn’t always this confident. When he was younger, Miles felt different from the other elephants in the herd. While they stomped through the jungle, shaking the ground with their powerful steps, Miles was more interested in the sounds of the world around him — the birds singing, the wind rustling through the leaves, and the distant beats of city life. He found an old trumpet one day, left behind by travelers, and from that moment on, he knew his path was in music.

However, it wasn’t easy. The other elephants didn’t understand why Miles spent so much time practicing instead of foraging or playing. “You can’t eat music,” they’d say with a laugh. But Miles didn’t let it stop him. He kept practicing, his heart filled with the desire to bring his unique sound to life.

And one day, the opportunity came. A group of jazz musicians visiting from the city heard him playing his trumpet near a watering hole. They were captivated by the depth and rhythm of his music. They invited him to join them back in the city, where he could share his gift with the world.

Now, years later, Miles had become a legend in the city’s music scene. People from all over came to hear the jazzy elephant who could turn any moment into a soulful symphony. His friends, both old and new, admired his resilience, and Miles, ever humble, always reminded them: “It’s not about being the loudest. It’s about playing with heart.”

And so, as the stars twinkled over the city and the night carried on, Miles continued to play, his trumpet echoing through the streets. His music was a reminder that no matter where you come from or what others think, as long as you follow your heart, you’ll find your rhythm.

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn:

15 oz. baby blue

11 oz. gray

7.5 oz. pale yellow

1 oz. black

½ oz. blue denim

¼ oz. pink

¼ oz. charcoal

5 yards white

1.5 oz. Kelly Green

Crochet hook size J (6.00 mm U.S.)

Yarn needle

Difficulty Level: Intermediate

Finished Measurements: 50″ x 37″

 Gauge: 5 blocks = 4”

Directions:

Rows 1-48 are increase rows.

Row 1: With color baby blue, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of the next 2 ch (1 block made).

Row 2: Ch 6, turn, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of the next 2 ch, sl st in first block. Ch 3, 3 dc in ch-3 sp of first block (2 blocks). Continue to increase in same manner through Row 48, following chart for color changes.

Row 3: 3 baby blue blocks

Row 4: 4 baby blue blocks

Row 5: 5 baby blue blocks

Row 6: 6 baby blue blocks

Row 7: 7 baby blue blocks

Row 8: 8 baby blue blocks

Row 9: 9 baby blue blocks

Row 10: 10 baby blue blocks

Row 11: 11 baby blue blocks (11 blocks)

Row 12: 12 baby blue blocks (12 blocks)

Row 13: 5 baby blue, 5 yellow, 3 baby blue blocks (13 blocks)

Row 14: 3 baby blue, 7 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (14 blocks)

Row 15: 4 baby blue, 8 yellow, 3 baby blue blocks (15 blocks)

Row 16: 3 baby blue, 9 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (16 blocks)

Row 17: 4 baby blue, 10 yellow, 3 baby blue blocks (17 blocks)

Row 18: 3 baby blue, 11 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (18 blocks)

Row 19: 4 baby blue, 11 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (19 blocks)

Row 20: 4 baby blue, 12 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (20 blocks)

Row 21: 4 baby blue, 13 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (21 blocks)

Row 22: 5 baby blue, 13 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (22 blocks)

Row 23: 4 baby blue, 6 yellow, 2 gray, 6 yellow, 5 baby blue blocks (23 blocks)

Row 24: 5 baby blue, 6 yellow, 3 gray, 6 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (24 blocks)

Row 25: 4 baby blue, 6 yellow, 4 gray, 5 yellow, 6 baby blue blocks (25 blocks)

Row 26: 6 baby blue, 5 yellow, 5 gray, 6 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (26 blocks)

Row 27: 4 baby blue, 6 yellow, 6 gray, 6 yellow, 6 baby blue blocks (27 blocks)

Row 28: 7 baby blue, 5 yellow, 6 gray, 6 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks (28 blocks)

Row 29: 5 baby blue, 6 yellow, 6 gray, 5 yellow, 7 baby blue blocks (29 blocks)

Row 30: 8 baby blue, 4 yellow, 7 gray, 6 yellow, 5 baby blue blocks (30 blocks)

Row 31: 5 baby blue, 7 yellow, 6 gray, 4 yellow, 9 baby blue blocks (31 blocks)

Row 32: 9 baby blue, 4 yellow, 6 gray, 8 yellow, 5 baby blue blocks (32 blocks)

Row 33: 5 baby blue, 8 yellow, 7 gray, 3 yellow, 10 baby blue blocks (33 blocks)

Row 34: 11 baby blue, 2 yellow, 7 gray, 9 yellow, 5 baby blue blocks (34 blocks)

Row 35: 5 baby blue, 10 yellow, 7 gray, 1 yellow, 1 gray, 11 baby blue blocks (35 blocks)

Row 36: 11 baby blue, 10 gray, 9 yellow, 6 baby blue blocks (36 blocks)

Row 37: 6 baby blue, 10 yellow, 10 gray, 11 baby blue blocks (37 blocks)

Row 38: 11 baby blue, 10 gray, 11 yellow, 6 baby blue blocks (38 blocks)

Row 39: 6 baby blue, 11 yellow, 11 gray, 11 baby blue blocks (39 blocks)

Row 40: 11 baby blue, 12 gray, 10 yellow, 7 baby blue blocks (40 blocks)

Row 41: 7 baby blue, 10 yellow, 13 gray, 11 baby blue blocks (41 blocks)

Row 42: 12 baby blue, 13 gray, 10 yellow, 7 baby blue blocks (42 blocks)

Row 43: 8 baby blue, 9 yellow, 14 gray, 12 baby blue blocks (43 blocks)

Row 44: 12 baby blue, 15 gray, 9 yellow, 8 baby blue blocks (44 blocks)

Row 45: 8 baby blue, 10 yellow, 14 gray, 13 baby blue blocks (45 blocks)

Row 46: 7 baby blue, 3 gray, 3 baby blue, 17 gray, 7 yellow, 9 baby blue blocks (46 blocks)

Row 47: 9 baby blue, 7 yellow, 18 gray, 2 baby blue, 4 gray, 7 baby blue blocks (47 blocks)

Row 48: 7 baby blue, 5 gray, 2 baby blue, 18 gray, 7 yellow, 9 baby blue blocks (48 blocks)

Rows 49-64 will decrease on right side of blanket and increase on left side of blanket to maintain 48 blocks for each row. To decrease on right side, ch 1, turn, sl st in 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc in ch-3 sp of last block.

Row 49: 9 baby blue, 6 yellow, 18 gray, 2 baby blue, 6 gray, 7 baby blue blocks

Row 50: 7 baby blue, 7 gray, 1 baby blue, 19 gray, 6 yellow, 8 baby blue blocks

Row 51: 7 baby blue, 6 yellow, 28 gray, 7 baby blue blocks

Row 52: 7 baby blue, 29 gray, 5 yellow, 7 baby blue blocks

Row 53: 6 baby blue, 5 yellow, 29 gray, 8 baby blue blocks

Row 54: 8 baby blue, 30 gray, 5 yellow, 5 baby blue blocks

Row 55: 5 baby blue, 5 yellow, 5 gray, 1 yellow, 24 gray, 8 baby blue blocks

Row 56: 9 baby blue, 23 gray, 2 yellow, 5 gray, 5 yellow, 4 baby blue blocks

Row 57: 4 baby blue, 5 yellow, 4 gray, 3 yellow, 23 gray, 9 baby blue blocks

Row 58: 10 baby blue, 21 gray, 5 yellow, 4 gray, 5 yellow, 3 baby blue blocks

Row 59: 3 baby blue, 5 yellow, 3 gray, 6 yellow, 20 gray, 11 baby blue blocks

Row 60: 14 baby blue, 1 denim, 16 gray, 1 baby blue, 5 yellow, 3 gray, 6 yellow, 2 baby blue blocks

Row 61: 2 baby blue, 6 yellow, 2 gray, 5 yellow, 2 baby blue, 15 gray, 1 denim, 15 baby blue blocks

Row 62: 15 baby blue, 1 denim, 15 gray, 3 baby blue, 12 yellow, 2 baby blue blocks

Row 63: 1 baby blue, 12 yellow, 4 baby blue, 1 gray, 1 baby blue, 12 gray, 2 denim, 15 baby blue blocks

Row 64: 16 baby blue, 1 denim, 7 gray, 2 pink, 3 gray, 7 baby blue, 11 yellow, 1 baby blue blocks

The remainder of the afghan (Rows 65-111) is worked with decrease on both sides until only one block remains.

Row 65: 1 baby blue, 10 yellow, 8 baby blue, 2 gray, 2 pink, 7 gray, 2 denim, 15 baby blue blocks (47 blocks)

Row 66: 15 baby blue, 1 denim, 8 gray, 1 pink, 3 gray, 8 baby blue, 8 yellow, 2 baby blue blocks (46 blocks)

Row 67: 1 baby blue, 8 yellow, 9 baby blue, 11 gray, 2 denim, 14 baby blue blocks (45 blocks)

Row 68: 14 baby blue, 1 denim, 12 gray, 9 baby blue, 6 yellow, 2 baby blue blocks (44 blocks)

Row 69: 2 baby blue, 3 yellow, 12 baby blue, 10 gray, 2 denim, 14 baby blue blocks (43 blocks)

Row 70: 14 baby blue, 2 denim, 9 gray, 17 baby blue blocks (42 blocks)

Row 71: 16 baby blue, 10 gray, 1 denim, 14 baby blue blocks (41 blocks)

Row 72: 14 baby blue, 1 denim, 9 gray, 16 baby blue blocks (40 blocks)

Row 73: 16 baby blue, 9 gray, 14 baby blue blocks (39 blocks)

Row 74: 13 baby blue, 10 gray, 15 baby blue blocks (38 blocks)

Row 75: 15 baby blue, 9 gray, 13 baby blue blocks (37 blocks)

Row 76: 12 baby blue, 9 gray, 15 baby blue blocks (36 blocks)

Row 77: 15 baby blue, 3 gray, 1 baby blue, 4 gray, 12 baby blue blocks (35 blocks)

Row 78: 11 baby blue, 4 gray, 1 baby blue, 4 gray, 14 baby blue blocks (34 blocks)

Row 79: 14 baby blue, 4 gray, 2 baby blue, 2 gray, 11 baby blue blocks (33 blocks)

Row 80: 15 baby blue, 4 gray, 13 baby blue blocks (32 blocks)

Row 81: 12 baby blue, 4 gray, 15 baby blue blocks (31 blocks)

Row 82: 16 baby blue, 2 gray, 12 baby blue blocks (30 blocks)

Row 83: 11 baby blue, 3 gray, 15 baby blue blocks (29 blocks)

Row 84: 15 baby blue, 2 gray, 11 baby blue blocks (28 blocks)

Row 85: 10 baby blue, 2 gray, 15 baby blue blocks (27 blocks)

Row 86: 14 baby blue, 5 gray, 7 baby blue blocks (26 blocks)

Row 87: 6 baby blue, 5 gray, 14 baby blue blocks (25 blocks)

Row 88: 13 baby blue, 5 gray, 6 baby blue blocks (24 blocks)

Row 89: 5 baby blue, 2 gray, 2 charcoal, 2 gray, 12 baby blue blocks (23 blocks)

Row 90: 11 baby blue, 2 gray, 3 charcoal, 1 gray, 5 baby blue blocks (22 blocks)

Row 91: 5 baby blue, 1 gray, 3 charcoal, 2 gray, 10 baby blue blocks (21 blocks)

Row 92: 9 baby blue, 2 gray, 2 charcoal, 2 gray, 5 baby blue blocks (20 blocks)

Row 93: 5 baby blue, 2 gray, 2 charcoal, 2 gray, 8 baby blue blocks (19 blocks)

Row 94: 7 baby blue, 2 gray, 2 charcoal, 1 gray, 6 baby blue blocks (18 blocks)

Row 95: 6 baby blue, 4 gray, 7 baby blue blocks (17 blocks)

Row 96: 6 baby blue, 4 gray, 6 baby blue blocks (16 blocks)

Row 97: 15 baby blue blocks (15 blocks)

Row 98: 14 baby blue blocks (14 blocks)

Row 99: 13 baby blue blocks (13 blocks)

Row 100: 12 baby blue blocks (12 blocks)

Row 101: 11 baby blue blocks (11 blocks)

Row 102: 10 baby blue blocks (10 blocks)

Row 103: 9 baby blue blocks (9 blocks)

Row 104: 8 baby blue blocks (8 blocks)

Row 105: 7 baby blue blocks (7 blocks)

Row 106: 6 baby blue blocks (6 blocks)

Row 107: 5 baby blue blocks (5 blocks)

Row 108: 4 baby blue blocks (4 blocks)

Row 109: 3 baby blue blocks (3 blocks)

Row 110: 2 baby blue blocks

Row 111: 1 baby blue block

COLOR CHART

 

 

 

 

 

 

EYES (Make 2)

Rnd 1: With white, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of starting ch, sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts (14 sc). Join with sl st. Fasten off white leaving 12” length for sewing.

Pupil: With black yarn, ch 2 (or magic circle), 6 sc in 2nd ch. Fasten off leaving 6” length and sew to bottom center of eye.

Sew eyes to face at position marked on chart.

Make 5 quarter notes in black yarn and sew above elephant’s head.

Rnd 1: With black, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of starting ch, sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts (14 sc). Join with sl st. Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch ch from hook and next 9 ch. Sl st in next st of Rnd 2. Fasten off leaving 12” length for sewing. Sew notes above the elephant’s head.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Use black thread to embroider details following the chart.

https://youtu.be/MHp1mgdYzQE

Ad-free PDF available at Miles the Jazzy Elephant C2C Blanket Crochet Pattern

 

 

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Crochet the companion Miles amigurumi to go along with your blanket

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Miles the Jazzy Elephant Crochet Pattern

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Miles the Jazzy Elephant C2C Blanket Crochet Pattern

 

 

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September Blog Calendar, free download
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autumn birthday gift tag
Autumn Birthday Gift Tag, free download

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

elephant gift tag
Elephant Birthday Gift Tag
Elephant Mandala Coloring Page
Elephant Crochet Patterns
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Elephant Lovey, My Fingers Fly
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Elephant Finger Puppet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ICYMI (In Case You Missed It)

Bumble Beaver Amigurumi pattern
Pickle Kick Sack crochet pattern
Tiger Pillow Sham
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Snow Bunny Wrist Warmers

 

 

 

 

 

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Snow Bunny Wrist Warmers Crochet Pattern – Cute Fingerless Gloves

Cute, Cozy & Practical

One of my favorite things about wrist warmers is how useful they are. Unlike traditional mittens or gloves, wrist warmers leave your fingers free, making them perfect for all those little things you need to do throughout the day.

Grab your coffee. 📱
Work at your computer. 💻
Read a book. 📖
Use your crochet hook. 🧶

Your hands stay warm while your fingers remain free!

And let’s be honest—anything with an adorable bunny theme is even better. 🐰💕

A Fun Crochet Project

The Snow Bunny Wrist Warmers are also a satisfying project when you want to make something cute without committing to a huge blanket or complicated garment.

They’re a great project for enjoying a cozy afternoon with your favorite yarn and crochet hook. Plus, once you’ve made a pair, you may find yourself wanting to make another pair in a different color!

Imagine them in:

🤍 Soft white for a snowy winter look
🩷 Blush pink for a sweet bunny-inspired style
💙 Icy blue for a frosty winter feel
💜 Lavender for something a little different
🌈 Your favorite color for a completely personalized pair

A Handmade Gift They’ll Actually Use

Looking for a small handmade gift? These wrist warmers make a thoughtful present for friends, family members, teachers, coworkers, or anyone who appreciates something handmade.

They’re especially fun for Christmas gifts, stocking stuffers, winter birthdays, or just-because gifts.

There’s something special about giving someone a handmade item that you’ve created yourself. Every stitch carries a little bit of your time and creativity.

Grab your crochet hook and make yourself a pair of Snow Bunny Wrist Warmers today!

Happy crocheting! ❤️

Materials:

Bernat Pipsqueak yarn 75[90] yards

Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook

Yarn needle

Gauge: 13 sc = 4”, 13 rows = 4”

Ladies small measures 9” circumference x 6” long .

 

Directions:

Rnd 1: Fsc 26 [28]. Join with sl st.

Rnds 2-9 [10]: Ch 1, sc in each st. Join with sl st. Place marker at end of Rnd 9.

Rnd 10 [11]: Ch 1, sc in each st leaving last 4 sc unworked, ch 4. Join with sl st.

Rnd 11 [12]: Ch 1, sc in each st, sc in each ch. Join with sl st.

Rnds 12-15 [13-17]: Ch 1, sc in each st. Join with sl st.

Rnds 16-17 [18-19]: Ch 1, fp hdc, bp hdc,* repeat around. Join with sl st. Fasten off yarn.

RIBBING:

Return to beginning to work from Rnd 1 and attach yarn.

Rnds 1-2: Ch 1, *fp dc, bp dc,* repeat around.

Weave in all ends.

 

Ad-free PDF available at Snow Bunny Crochet Wrist Warmers Pattern

The PDF is free for one day only (September 25) during the Crochet for Charity Blog Hop. 

NOTE: Downloading this pattern adds you to my email list where I share new patterns, exclusive discounts, and crochet inspiration. You can unsubscribe anytime—no hard feelings!

 

 

 

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Let It Snow… and Crochet! ❄️

Bring a little winter magic to your crochet hook with this Snow-Themed Crochet Pattern Bundle! ☃️🧶 From snowy favorites to frosty fun, this collection is packed with charming projects perfect for adding a touch of winter wonderland to your home, gifting to someone special, or simply enjoying a cozy day with your yarn.

Get all 7 patterns in the bundle for only $7.00 (through 9/30/2026) – Gingerbread Snowman, Snow Globe Gift Bag, Snowflake Kitchen Boa, Snowman Stocking, Melted Snowman Ornament, Snowflake Poncho, & Snowman Gift Bag

Grab your hook, choose your favorite winter colors, and get ready to crochet your own little snow day!

https://www.ravelry.com/redeem/my-fingers-fly-designs?sale=437384

 

 

Share your new creations in my Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1GcgVo8U6k/

 

September Blog Calendar, free download
September Planner, free download
autumn birthday gift tag
Autumn Birthday Gift Tag, free download

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ICYMI (In Case You Missed It)

Diagonal Skinny Scarf Crochet Pattern
Patriotic Mouse Amigurumi pattern
Bumble Beaver Amigurumi pattern
Pickle Kick Sack crochet pattern
Tiger Pillow Sham
National Dog Month Roundup

 

 

 

 

 

Affiliate Links

This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to buy something, we may earn a commission. Thanks for helping support my crochet blog. 

Lion Brand Yarn

20% off Parfait Yarn

 

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Why Are There Ads on My Crochet Blog?

If you’ve been following my blog for a while, you know that I love sharing free crochet patterns, printables, tutorials, and freebies with you—especially during all of the fun seasonal blog hops!

But with the increase in fall blog hops, I’ve also received more comments and complaints about the ads that appear on my blog. So I thought I’d take a moment to explain why the ads are there and why they are important.

Free Doesn’t Mean It Costs Nothing

When I offer a free crochet pattern or printable, there is no charge to you for downloading it. But creating and maintaining that free content isn’t actually free for me.

There are costs involved in running a website, including hosting, domain fees, software, email services, website maintenance, photography, design tools, and all of the time that goes into designing, testing, writing, formatting, and promoting each pattern.

The ads help cover those expenses.

They allow me to continue offering free content without having to charge you for every pattern or tutorial.

For example, the website for my blog charges $308 per year plus $23 for the domain. Ad revenue from the blog was $473 for last year, leaving me a surplus of only $158 to cover the cost of yarn, photos, editing software, and all the other costs associated with running a business.

Those Freebies Take Time

A free pattern may take just as much work to create as a paid pattern.

There is designing, crocheting, testing, photographing, writing instructions, editing, creating the blog post, and maintaining the website. And when I’m participating in a blog hop with other designers, there is even more behind-the-scenes work involved.

The fact that you aren’t paying for the pattern doesn’t mean there wasn’t a significant investment of time and resources in creating it.

Why So Many Ads During Blog Hops?

You may notice more ads when you’re visiting my blog for a blog hop.

That’s because blog hops can bring a LOT more visitors to the website in a short period of time. More visitors mean more opportunities to generate the advertising revenue that helps support the website.

And honestly, that revenue helps make it possible for me to continue participating in these events and offering so many freebies.

You Don’t Have to Buy Anything

The wonderful thing about the ads is that you don’t have to purchase anything from them.

You can simply scroll past them, download your freebie, and enjoy your crochet project.

If an ad is particularly intrusive or makes the page difficult to use, I understand the frustration. I’m always working to provide a good experience while also keeping the website financially sustainable. Please also remember – I don’t personally choose the ads. Google selects them based on your browsing history.

A Little Support Goes a Long Way ❤️

If you’ve ever downloaded one of my free patterns, used one of my printables, participated in a blog hop, or found something useful on my website, the ads are one of the ways you’ve helped support my work—even if you never purchased anything.

So the next time you see an ad while grabbing a free crochet pattern, just remember:

That ad is helping keep the free stuff free. 🧶❤️

Thank you for being here, for crocheting my designs, for sharing your finished projects, and for supporting independent designers.

If you have downloaded a free pattern from my blog or from one of the blog hops, I totally understand why. I too am a bargain shopper! The great thing is you don’t have to purchase anything to support independent designers. When you finish a project from a free pattern, post it on your social media. Share a project on Ravelry or Ribblr. Forward social media posts to your friends who crochet. There are many ways to support indie designers without costing you a penny!

Also, follow your favorite designers on social media so you’ll always know about new patterns, blog hops, sales & discounts.

And most of all, thank you for understanding that there is a real person behind the website who is working hard to keep all of these free crochet goodies coming!

Happy crocheting!

September blog hops

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September Blog Calendar, free download
September Planner, free download
autumn birthday gift tag
Autumn Birthday Gift Tag, free download

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share your new creations in my Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1GcgVo8U6k/

 

Free Scarf Crochet Patterns

 

ICYMI (In Case You Missed It)

Diagonal Skinny Scarf Crochet Pattern
Patriotic Mouse Amigurumi pattern
Bumble Beaver Amigurumi pattern
Pickle Kick Sack crochet pattern
Tiger Pillow Sham
National Dog Month Roundup

 

 

 

 

 

Affiliate Links

This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to buy something, we may earn a commission. Thanks for helping support my crochet blog. 

Lion Brand Yarn

20% off Parfait Yarn

 

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Diagonal Skinny Scarf Crochet Pattern

Elevate your accessory game with our Diagonal Stripe Skinny Scarf Crochet Pattern! Perfect for adding a touch of elegance to any outfit, this sleek and stylish scarf is quick and easy to crochet.

Crafted with a simple C2C stitch pattern, this scarf drapes beautifully around your neck without adding bulk, making it ideal for layering year-round. Its narrow width gives it a modern and sophisticated look that’s versatile enough to pair with both casual and dressy ensembles.

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick project or a beginner eager to try something new, this pattern is perfect for you. With detailed instructions and helpful tips, you’ll be stitching up your own chic skinny scarf in no time!

Materials Needed:
Mule Spinner 2-ply or worsted weight yarn:
210 yards blue
65 yards white
Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle

Skill Level: Beginner

Finished Measurements:
Approximately 4” wide by 56” long (or desired length).

Materials:

Mule Spinner 2-ply or worsted weight yarn:

210 yards blue

65 yards white

Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook

Yarn needle

Finished scarf measures approximately 4” wide by 56” long (or desired length).

 STITCHES:

This pattern is worked in hdc C2C:

Row 1: Ch 4, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch.  (1 square)

Row 2: Ch 4, turn, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch. Sl st in ch-1 sp of square on previous row. (2 squares)

Repeat Row 2 until piece reaches desired number of squares. Each row will increase by 1 square.

Decrease rows: Turn, sl st across top of last square, *ch 1, 3 hdc in ch-1 sp of previous square,* repeat across to last square. Do not ch 4 to create a new square.

 Line-by-Line Directions:

FRONT:

Row 1: Using I hook, 1 blue square

Row 2: 2 blue squares

Row 3: 3 blue squares

Row 4: 4 blue squares

Row 5: 5 blue squares

Row 6: 6 blue squares

Row 7: 7 blue squares

Row 8: Continue to increase only on one side. The scarf will be 7 squares wide. (7 blue squares)

Row 9: 7 white squares

Row 10: 7 white squares

Rows 11-17: 7 blue squares.

Repeat Rows 9-17 until scarf reaches 2” less than desired length.

Then repeat Rows 9-10 for the last white stripe.

Next Row: 7 blue squares

Next Row: 6 blue squares

Next Row: 5 blue squares

Next Row: 4 blue squares

Next Row: 3 blue squares

Next Row: 2 blue squares

Next Row: 1 blue square

Fasten off yarn. Weave in all ends.

 

Ad-free PDF available at Diagonal Skinny Scarf Crochet Pattern

PDF is free for one day only on 9/16/2026

NOTE: Downloading this pattern adds you to my email list where I share new patterns, exclusive discounts, and crochet inspiration. You can unsubscribe anytime—no hard feelings!

 

 

 

 

 

September Blog Calendar, free download
September Planner, free download
autumn birthday gift tag
Autumn Birthday Gift Tag, free download

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share your new creations in my Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1GcgVo8U6k/

 

Free Scarf Crochet Patterns

 

ICYMI (In Case You Missed It)

Soccer Freezer Pop crochet pattern
Patriotic Mouse Amigurumi pattern
Bumble Beaver Amigurumi pattern
Pickle Kick Sack crochet pattern
Tiger Pillow Sham
National Dog Month Roundup

 

 

 

 

 

Affiliate Links

This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to buy something, we may earn a commission. Thanks for helping support my crochet blog. 

Lion Brand Yarn

20% off Parfait Yarn